Born 1889 December 1 in Pawtucket, RI, Mary Gray Dexter attended Rhode Island School of Design's Saturday Children's classes, 1901-1904, then returned in 1908 as a student in the Department of Textile Design led by Herman O. Werner. She received her diploma in 1911 and took evening classes during the 1911-1912 academic year. Dexter was appointed head designer for the Shannock Narrow Fabric Co., Pawtucket, RI in 1911 May. She joined the American Textile Co., Pawtucket, RI in 1912 as the first female commercial lace designer in the United States.
Dexter married Erwin Clayberg Tompkins 1915 May 27. A graduate of Brown University (1911), Tompkins became manager of the Nueholf Packing Co., Nashville, TN. Dexter died in Franklin, TN 1983 September 4.
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Agnes Gray Dexter papers, Rhode Island School of Design Archives.
The Mary Gray Dexter papers contain examples of her classwork completed as a student in the Rhode Island School of Design, Department of Textile Design, 1909-1911. The bulk of the collection is found in a notebook containing color coordinated weaving pattern plates. Each plate, 8.5x7 inches, is signed, dated, numbered, and identifies the type of weaving pattern depicted. There is one folder containing six fabric analysis sheets, 1910-1911. Each sheet is signed, dated, numbered, and contains a detailed analysis of a weaving design. Topics include selvage, warp dressed, texture, filling arrangement, warp and filling yarns required, and heddles per harness. The notebook may contain analysis sheets and both items contain fabric swatches. These records may be class work for the required classes "Analysis and Structure of Fabrics" and "Weave Formation."
The papers contain a 1911 January 29 Providence Sunday Journal (original and photocopy) titled "Textile Training at the School of Design," which includes an image of Dexter punching cards for a Jacquard loom.
The RISD catalogues for 1910-1911 and 1911-1912 contain an image of Dexter's textiles designs.
Organized by item.
The American Textile History Museum, Inc. transferred the collection to the RISD Archives 2017 August 10.